For those of us that garden at 5,280 feet and above, every
year it’s easy to get frustrated and discouraged by the unexpected failures of
starting our own seedlings. This is especially true after putting in every
effort and the time to check various growing calendars, secure the right seed
variety for your garden conditions and ensure your indoor growing area is all
set to go. Be it heirloom seed for your
vegetable beds or flower seed for the pollinators, it’s sometimes a real
challenge to figure out what’s really
going on and what one needs to accommodate our short growing season. All the
work gets done and suddenly after a few weeks of watching tiny green sprouts
germinate to the surface, you’re met with thin stems that seemingly grew 2”
overnight, thus forcing the seedling to fall over, or a tiny insect has somehow
invaded your soil medium and nothing looks right. It’s the dreaded soil fungus fly!
Here are a few essential pieces of information for successful
seed starting and growing that you can keep in mind:
Soil For indoor seed starting, a commercial soilless
medium is easiest to use. Most contain
peat and perlite. There is a balance to
achieve of good drainage and enough moisture retention to allow the seed to
germinate. While there are also recipes
online for making your own mixture, beware of contaminants and suggested
compost or fertilizer additives. Save
the garden soil for direct sowing of seed after you’ve done your prep work in
the beds.
Water – The
essential element to allow germination!
Work to keep your soil medium moderately and evenly moist every
day. Consider bottom watering from a
tray and even saturating the medium the night before you plant your containers
or trays. Too much water saturates the soil, decreasing aeration, thus potentially
hampering root growth and causing damping off.
Too little water will likely impede growth or stop it all together.
Light – Indoor
grow lights improve your chances of success.
Most have a color range from blue to warm. Look for a bulb simulating the closest thing
to natural daylight – usually 5,000-5600K. Guidelines vary somewhat, but most seedlings
require 14-18 hrs of light daily to germinate.
Consult your seed information. There
are variances for different vegetables as well as flowers.
Temperature – This
is often the hidden challenge for many, particularly those just starting to
grow seedlings. For our average
vegetables and plants, seeds will germinate at an optimum soil temperature of
68-80 degrees. Invest in a soil
temperature gauge (or an oven roasting thermometer) and a heat mat to help
control this. The trick is achieving the
happy medium of soil temperature to optimal air (growing) temperature. Soil medium can be several degrees cooler than
air temperature just due to evaporation. You don’t want to wait so long that our short
growing season hampers fruit production or causes late leaf maturity causing
bitter tastes or late bolting.
Red Flag Warnings
–
·
Leggy & spindly seedlings or plants –
Usually caused by not enough light, excessive water, seeds too close together,
temperature too high or old seeds.
·
Rotting or collapse of stem at soil – Damping
off, frequently caused by too much water in soil or medium. Invites soil fungus
which invites insects.
·
“Bleached’ or yellowed upper leaves – The light
source is too close to seedlings.
·
Seed Coat adheres to seedling leaf (cotyledon) –
Low seed viability, old seed.
·
Yellowing leaves close to soil – Possible sign
of soil depletion if no insects are present.
Consider
A nitrogen based fertilizer
(20-20-20) in a small application.
If you’ve made it this far and your seedlings have
survived with leaves around the 2” mark, you’ve made it past the obstacles
mentioned above. Congratulations! You are now ready to harden off your
seedlings and transplant them into your garden beds. Watch for future posts covering these steps. You can also refer to the Colorado State University
Extension website for further information on seed starting and transplanting. Happy spring- our garden work is just
beginning!
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