When we moved into our home at 8800’ 25 years ago, we
immediately transplanted a bunch of aspen, lodgepole and ponderosa, as well as
some native current and serviceberry - all bare root. The
good news is they have all done pretty well, but the star performer was the
largest – a lodgepole (about 15’) that we pulled out of the ground without
saving any soil. Bare root planting can be very successful.
1. WHERE? Locate the plant in a place where it will get
the right amount of sun, natural water or runoff and wind protection for the species. Follow current fire mitigation guidelines –
don’t plant too close together or too close to your home.
2. WHEN?
Plant when the shoots are dormant,
before buds break and the leaves begin to grow. Roots do not go dormant as the
shoots do: they grow when planted in soil temperatures above freezing,
and soil moisture is available. At high
altitude, usually April - May.
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www.extensionumn.edu
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3. HOW?
·
Plant immediately or place plants in a trench. (For the
trench, cover roots with loose soil and keep the trench moist.) Roots, especially root hairs can dry out in
minutes! If the roots are dehydrated, soak them in a slurry of water
and a shovel full of soil (or a few tablespoons of polymer) for a few hours
before planting.
·
Dig
a hole 3x wider than the existing root system. Roughen the sides of the hole with a spading
fork. Amending soil is not necessary as
roots will not want to leave the amended area!
Adding some polymer can retain moisture for an extra day or 2.
·
Make
a small mound - or cone - of soil in the
bottom of the hole to support the roots.
Carefully spread roots over mound and loosely put soil in, around, over
and under roots. When the hole is half
full, fill with water (to naturally tamp soil) and complete backfilling the hole.
Gently tamp soil to remove air
pockets, avoiding damaging roots and compacting soil.
·
How deep? Root collar (top
of root system/base of trunk) should be at same depth as it was in its previous
location. Plant high enough to
allow for settling. If you plant too
high or low, the plant can become stressed and die.
4. WATER Under
or over watering will kill the roots. Keep soil moist for first 2 weeks. Form a
low 2' diameter soil ring around the plant to create a watering basin. Water
slowly to wet the soil thoroughly. Regularly
check soil moisture 12” down. Water when
dry – even in winter.
Fertilizing is not
necessary until the 2nd year.
5.
PROTECTION
·
MULCH:
about 3” to control weeds and slow evaporation.
Don’t let mulch touch the trunk.
·
STAKING:
Stake the plant only if it cannot stand up by itself under normal wind
conditions. Stake as low as possible down the trunk with flexible, unabrasive
ties. Not too tight!
·
CRITTERS:
Protect young bark from rodents with screening or chicken wire. A fence around
the plant will deter deer.
Read more:
·
http://csfs.colostate.edu/wildfire-mitigation/protect-your-home-property-forest-from-wildfire/#dspacehttp://csfs.colostate.edu/seedling-planting-guide
Fire mitigation guidelines for what and where to plant near your home
·
http://californiaagriculture.ucanr.edu/landingpage.cfm?article=ca.v046n03p9&fulltext=yes
An interesting study on ability of polymers to save water (or not!)
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